Boston - Day Two

Sorry to keep everyone on the edge of their seats waiting for the details of the second day of our Boston trip. I hope my delay didn't cause anyone any permanent angst. I'm really not sure exactly what I've been doing that seems to have kept me so busy. I have had a few long days at work lately. Yeah, that's it. Work.



Regardless of my reasons (excuses), I'm here now and ready for a vivid description of Boston - Day Two! If I throw in some stuff that I already talked about in Day One please forgive me. We kicked off Day Two (Saturday) with a tour of the Freedom Trail. For those of you who are not up on Boston geography/history/tourism, the Freedom Trail is a 2.5 mile tour through the historic sections of Boston - which is pretty much all of Boston. To stay on the trail you simply follow the red line painted on the sidewalk. The brochure says 2.5 miles. It seemed farther for some reason; maybe because Boston was in the midst of one of its worst heat waves ever. It reminded me a lot of Houston's weather, and I'm pretty sure that I wouldn't take a 2.5 mile walk in the middle of the day in Houston, but when in Boston . . . Let me give you some guidance on taking on the Freedom Trail. There are three options of which I'm aware - 1) A trolley tour where you ride around in an open trolley and someone describes everything for you. It's an on-and-off trolley, so you can get off and on any time and anywhere you want. We decided that this was for wimps, 2) The "official" Freedom Trail Tour, during which you follow a guy dressed like Ben Franklin around to the various historical sites. This is the most popular tour. We opted to skip this because the guide was not only dressed like Ben Franklin, he was also just about as old and didn't seem like he'd be a fun guy, 3) The "unofficial" Freedom Trail Tour, which is conducted by two twenty-something kids dressed like two twenty-something kids. What distinguishes them is that one of them carries an American flag. This tour is much more hip than the others. It also - in spite of what the brochure says - skips about 50% of the historic sights, which meant that we had to go back and look them up ourselves, which wasn't too difficult because to the red line. We decided that if we had it to do all over again we do it all over with Ben.



Regardless of which tour option is selected, the history is the same. I won't give you a detailed historical account of each attraction, but instead will simply refer to the pictures below, each of
which includes a brief, snappy narrative.



Some Boston street entertainers. These guys called themselves the Breeze Team and they were pretty entertaining. In addition to their heavy funk break-dancing and acrobatics they also delivered two lines I'll always remember fondly: "We're gonna pass the bucket for our recommended $5 per person tip. If you run we will chase you" and "Remember folks, the more money you give us, the more money we'll have."







The inside of the Old South Meeting House. It was from this very place that the colonists - fed up with rising taxes and an overbearing government (hmmm?) - launched the original Boston Tea Party. After whipping themselves into an anti-British frenzy they rushed out and dumped a few million dollars worth of tea into Boston harbor.





Me surrounded by some very old dead guys. We learned that several years ago, in order to allow space for lawn mowers, the keepers of the old Boston grave yards rearranged the headstones into more manageable rows, meaning that the current placement of the stones to not correspond to the location of the deceased.






The TD Boston Garden, home of the Boston Celtics, multiple winners of the NBA championship. For the record, this is without a doubt one of the ugliest buildings I have ever seen.

Vicki's very artsy photo that captures not just the Old North Church, but also the statue of Paul Revere! One if by land, and two if by sea . . . It was 17 miles by land or one mile by sea. Where the lanterns really necessary?








An upscale neighborhood street scene in Boston. Most of these building are at least 150 years old.













Me standing in front of Paul Revere's house. A few historical tidbits about old Paul -

1) This house was already 90 years old when he and his family moved in.
2) Paul served in the Continental army, but was dishonorably discharged for reasons of insubordination and cowardice. After the war he demanded a court-martial which eventually cleared his name, thereby allowing him to become a tourist attraction.




Another street "performer." I'll bet she was hot under her chrome exterior.

















In this cemetery are buried Paul Revere, and Ben Franklin's parents. Nobody ever really said where Ben himself is buried.













Vicki outside a festive flower stand near Faniell Hall.



















Musket fire near the Bunker Hill memorial, which is by the way not actually on the top of Bunker Hill, which by the way was not really the hill upon which the Battle of Bunker Hill was conducted. Look it up.











The flag boy of the unofficial Boston Freedom Trail tour. If you look closely you can see the Ben Franklin guy in the background. I think Ben is giving flag boy the evil eye.








After finishing off the Trail at the old navy yard (home of Old Ironsides - not pictured) we elected to take the harbor ferry back to the North End. I highly suggest this as a nice way to end your day on the Trail, especially if the temperature is 96 degrees. It's about a ten minute ride and the breeze feels great. And if that's not enough, the price of the ticket ($1.70) is covered by your 7-day "T" pass. They also have ice-cold fountain diet-Coke, which was the highlight of the trip for Vicki.

After disembarking from the ferry we found ourselves surrounded by the festivities of the annual Harbor Days throng. We also found ourselves face-to-face with Legal Seafood, which according to all the tourist guides is THE place to go for lobster. I didn't get the low down on how it got the name "Legal". Sorry. Regardless of the mysterious name, the lobster was great, and not all that expensive (as lobster goes, that is). We had a waiter who was at least 6'9" tall and who was quite chatty. After dinner I bought myself a Boston Red Sox hat to wear to the game on Sunday. I'll talk about that "tomorrow", maybe.


After our lobster and hat-buying we headed back to our digs on the South End. It was a quick ride on the Red Line, the the Green Line, to the Silver Line bus. Not confusing at all! We highly recommend the Boston subway when the temperature is in the 90's! It made us feel right at home!

Tomorrow: Harvard, Fenway Park and Fireworks Madness!

The Great Massachusetts Muffin Tour

Greetings friends! After a lengthy absence I'm back to tell you all about the vacation trip Vicki and I took to Boston. We left last Friday morning and just got back to Sugar Land this afternoon. Other than the fact that during our visit Boston experienced one of its worst heat waves in recent memory (the temperature hit 99 degrees), we had an absolutely fantastic time. Who knew that Boston was such a fun place?

For starters, we stayed at the Aisling Bed & Breakfast, which is a 135 year-old row house on Boston's South End. The South End is definitely not the most upscale neighborhood in Boston, but it gave us a flavor for the real Boston, which is one of the most diverse places we've ever been. Our B&B was very comfortable, the gourmet breakfasts were all great (more on this later) and we were only a block from the Silver Line of the bus/subway system (the "T"). For a $15 weekly pass we traveled all over the city with ease (once we figured out how to read the transit maps). If you ever go to Boston, DO NOT bother to rent a car to get around in the city. The streets are for the most part narrow, they aren't laid out in a logical grid, and the traffic there make Houston look like a Sunday drive in the country. The T works great, it's cheap, and with the exception of a few weirdos who made Vicki a little nervous, it seemed pretty safe.

Rather than bore you with a very long post detailing all of our exciting adventures I'll instead break our trip into several shorter posts, which will enable me to bore you on a continuing basis over the next four or five days. Let's start with last Friday . . .

Boston Common - Boston Common is the oldest public park in America, dating back to the early 1600's. It's sort of the Central Park of Boston, but a little smaller and lot older. During its history it has served as a common pasture for the town's sheep and cattle, as the site for public hangings, as the place where occupying British troops camped and trained, as a burying ground, as a place for the town's folk to protest against the British government, and now, where the city-dwellers go for some outdoor rest and recreation. As Vicki and I strolled through the Common we realized that there were very few people who looked like us. We heard multiple languages spoken by people who looked like they came from a multitude of countries. This included the locals and the tourists. We stopped for awhile at the Frog Pond, which is an acre-sized concrete pond that's about a foot deep, in which the local kids frolic under a couple of water-spewing fountains as their parents relax in the shade. In the winter months the Frog Pond becomes a giant ice-skating rink.

Adjacent to the Common is the Botanical Garden, which is a much more serene and much quieter place. Apparently the masses don't enjoy tranquility as much as chaos because there were far fewer people here than in the extremely congested Common. In addition to the multiple flowers that populate the place, there are also the Swan Boats that operate on one of the small lakes. These are boats that seat about twenty tourists (I can believe that too many locals do this) and are powered by young men who sit in the back and pedal. The distinguishing characteristic of the Swan Boats is the large fiberglass swan that is perched at the back of each boat. By large I mean about eight feet tall. It actually looks kind of weird.

There are also several statues and monuments throughout the garden, memorializing significant people and events. My personal favorite is the Ether Monument, which as the name suggests is a monument to ether. It seems that the first successful application of ether as an anesthetic was at nearby Boston General Hospital. In the center of the garden is a large statue of George Washington astride his horse. As we were admiring this statue I overheard a conversation next to us in which a woman told her friends that you can always tell if a person died in battle, in which case they are always depicted mounted on a horse. I guess George Washington was killed in battle after he served his time as President of the United States.

After our ramblings in the Common and the Gardens we found our way up to the North End, which is home to the Old North Church and Paul Revere's House. These are both worthwhile attractions in their own right, but they pale is comparison to the North End's real attraction - about a hundred Italian restaurants packed into the area of a few city blocks. If you want some really good Italian food, go to the North End. We actually went twice while we were in town. As an added ambiance bonus I noticed that in front of many of the restaurants there were small tables at which sat old Italian guys who looked like they just stepped off the set of The Godfather. They all looked just about the same - slightly overweight, white shirt, slicked back hair, smoking a cigarette, drinking something alcoholic, and typically gesturing to each other while they spoke. They reminded me of my Mom's side of the family.

After our North End dinner we headed back to the South End. This being our first day on the T it took us a little while to figure out the difference between the Orange, Red, Blue, Green and Silver lines and which direction to take on each (a key consideration), but we managed to make it home without too much trouble. All day long we had commented to each other how nice the weather was - not too hot and not really humid at all! Little did we know the steaming evil that lurked in the weather forecast.

Tomorrow: The Freedom Trail, Lobsters, and soooo much more!